1998 d'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz Winery: d'Arenberg Vintage: 1998 Region: McLaren Vale Bottle Size: 750ml Variety: Shiraz Price: $140.00 (out of stock)

The 1998 The Dead Arm Shiraz (from a vineyard planted prior to 1890) is outrageously rich, spectacular stuff, the likes of which only Australia seems capable of making. Whiners may complain that it is too big, too rich, too flavorful, and too damn good, but this opaque purple-colored offering is loaded with blackberry liqueur, smoke, charcoal, pepper, cassis, and licorice. Unctuously-textured and full-bodied, but neither heavy nor overbearing, the wine's sweet tannin and low acidity are hidden in the cascade of fruit and glycerin that melt on the palate. This riveting, compelling effort can be drunk now, but promises to age well for two decades or more.